71. Building the Deck Structure!

Posted on by Leo Sampson Goolden by

In this episode we finish building the majority of the deck structure! Lots of dovetails are cut, and the deck layout emerges as we add carlins and half beams one by one.
We also begin making the templates for casting the solid bronze floors, and start the renovation of one of the original teak hatches – which I am hoping to reuse on the the deck. In other news, Pete’s dog meets Pancho, and Cecca does some metalwork.


Donate securely with PayPal – GBP


Donate securely with PayPal – USD



For sneaky preview of what’s going on in between Episodes, follow my Facebook and Instagram.

To become a PATRON, visit My Patreon Page

To see all the other ways you can support the project, visit the Support Tally Ho Page

To contribute tools or other items to help the project, see my Tally Ho’s Rebuild Wishlist

My Youtube Channel

—

Music;
Nat Keefe with The Bow Ties – Lost Native
TrackTribe – Greaser
Aaron Lieberman – Get ‘er Done
Fake Dave – Please Don’t Touch
(Fake Dave is an old friend – check out his Bandcamp and great YouTube video ! )


71. Building the Deck Structure! (Tally Ho EP71)

11 thoughts on “71. Building the Deck Structure!”

  1. Hi Leo,
    when you snapped that tool handle in half and showed the inside it reminded me of the problem we are having on the east coast with our red oak trees for the last 10-15 years. There is a bacteria devastating our red oak trees in Southern New Jersey (the state tree of New Jersey) , specifically Camden County , across the river from Philadelphia. The bacteria disrupts the sap flow in the tree. Then begins tip die-back. In a few years the tree is 80 % dead. Some branches of the tree look relatively healthy but I ‘ve noticed when these trees are taken down that the inside wood looks spongy, for lack of a better name. Even the heart wood. We’ve had some bad storms, with high winds, in the last few years where a 100 year old tree would literaly snap in half. The white oaks do not seem to be affected as much. The name of the bacteria is on the N.J. agricultural extension website. It spreads from tree – to – tree like dominoes. I live in a suburban area and I’ve developed a theory that the bacteria ( not to mention moss on our roofs ) is spread by leaf-blowers. Our block has gone from a tree-lined street to a “moonscape”.
    Good luck.

    Sal Parisi
    Barrington, N.J.

  2. Amazed at how quickly the deck structure came together. Really started to look like a boat after the beam shelve went in. I continue to be impressed with your joinery and the level of detail and fit throughout. Sharp tools in skilled and steady hands. Keep it up. Still two more years? 🙂

  3. I think the fore hatch is offset because of the chain locker on one side in the bow.

  5. Leo,
    Finally something I can usefully comment on as an engineer with a background in metallurgy! You’re exactly right, switching from iron to bronze. I believe you should use Aluminum Bronze (C95400). It’s stronger than the iron it would replace, exceptionally corrosion resistant in marine environments, and when new it looks just like gold. It weathers to a pleasing brown color. It’s even lighter in weight than other bronze alloys because it’s ~10% Aluminium.

  6. ged teak deck beam from the Cutty Sark that we have used in re furbishing our boat.

  7. Hi Leo Have you any idea what the boat will weight when completed compared to the original

    Thanks Mike

  9. Your bowsprit will be offset to port so it can be alongside (not over) the stem. I have a similar boat (1911 Scottish Zulu – FR451) with a similar offset bowsprit.

  11. The fore hatch is offset to clear the heel of the bowsprit when it is run in.

    Hoping to see some bronze diagonal strapping in the deck!

Comment...