75. Casting Bronze Floors

In this extra-length episode, Pete and Clark show the process of making individual patterns for each of the floors, laminating thin strips of ply into the boat and then shaping and sculpting them into the shape that we need. Patrick returns to help get the boat ready for planking, and we take the patterns to Port Townsend Foundry, where we learn all about the exciting bronze casting process, pack some moulds, and pour the first two floors for Tally Ho. When the molten bronze has solidified and cooled, we can break them out, grind them down, and take them back to the boat to see if they fit! Meanwhile, Pancho keeps her beady eye on the hens, and Backtrack expands his repertoire of napping spots!


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Music;
TrackTribe – Delta
Slynk & Mr Stabalina – The Jam
The Mini Vandals – The Shepherd
Text Me Records / Grandbankss – Realism
TrackTribe – 1968
The Mini Vandals – Sam the Man
Freedom Trail Studio – Dwarf Star
TrackTribe – Dance 4x


75. Casting Bronze Floors (Tally Ho EP75)

23 thoughts on “75. Casting Bronze Floors

  1. If there’s any bronze left over I would cast one floor twice. One for the boat the other just to be a beautiful object!
    Raffle/auction it or keep for posterity.
    I’ve binge watched the series over the last few weeks and it has helped me stay sane whilst furloughed.
    Many thanks and looking forward to seeing Tally Ho parked outside Underfalls Yard one day?

  2. Is it me or has it already been mentioned that one of Leo’s (don’t know his name) volunteers look exactly like Ron Swanson from Parks and Recreation.

  3. I had similar thoughts about the swelling of the bronze inside the sand. Your mold box is rectangular, and your bronze part is triangular. So just make some baffles inside your square box to approximate the triangular shape. Then you would not have to fill those box corners with all that extra sand. You could reinforce those triangular baffles with iron angle, or cement so they would not change shape. Just a thought.

  4. Looking at the limber holes, my immediate concern would be stress raising fatigue or fracture. This occurs where there is an abrupt change in section, although the overall section may be adequate to accept the loading. The reason it can happen is that stress within the material will be significantly higher in the reduced section than in surrounding areas causing high stress inside the material. See Wikipedia for further info. In straight sections it will not be an issue, but at the junction between frame and keel, it is exactly where max force and movement will occur.
    The solution may be simple. The limber holes, as cast, are concave, which gives an abrupt section change. Modifying these to convex (i.e. just rounding off the corner of the casting) will provide drainage and give a far smoother change in section.
    This is not my area of expertise but after 40 years as an engineer in diesels and hydraulics mainly in marine applications, I have picked a few things up along the way. I would refer refer back to Leo’s engineer who did the original calculations for advise.

  5. I totally disagree with Joe. Leo might ‘walk in the footprints’ of the original craftsmen who built “Tally Ho” but he definitely does not ‘Stand on their shoulders’. I have watched this channel from the beginning and seen the skill, effort, blood, sweat and a finger end that Leo has put into the project without complaint. Yes, he has electricity and power tools but he is generally working alone, not in a large team. I have never heard him complain once about the original designer or criticise the quality of the original build, quite the contrary.

  6. Here is a comment related to your pouring bronze, the reason you are seeing so much swelling is the large size of your part related to the large flat sides of the casing. You need to tie the sides together to prevent expansion. Even a small movement in the sides in such a large frame will allow the sand to be pushed away a great deal. So you need to put in some spacers inside the mound with th sand, and through bolt the sides with an external brace. This will give the sides more rigidity and prevent the from moving out. Even a quarter inch of movement ove this larg an are is allowing a lot of sand to move. Hope this helps, and good luck!

  7. Given that Tally Ho never came with a motor of any kind, have you considered going all electric? very green and much
    safer than diesel. Far less chance of something going wrong. A good resource for info is Seattle Boatworks. It is also
    less maintenance and less expensive. Also less room needed.
    Love your videos, John Coy

  8. Very educational episode. There is much more to this than meets the eye. I was interested in the choice of alloy as well as with the pattern making.

  9. Boo! Bah! Pitiful! Leo simply refuses to mention that he stands on the shoulders of those who built this boat and the did NOT have power tools He NEVER takes the moment to tell about those who went before him! It does appear that each video becomes weaker! Best of luck, but consider waking up!!

  10. Given the described overkill in the strength of each floor by both Leo and the foundryman, I don’t understand why the number, thickness, size or spacing of them could not have been safely reduced. Why not 3/4″ rather than 1-1/8″ for example, or four fewer, say, across the length of the keel?

  11. Well, was that exciting or what! I have a little experience in this business, pots and pans stuff so I was apprehensive of how it could be done in, to me, giant casting.
    You are a courageous man Leo…or a nutcase. The jury is still out.
    BUT, you soon will be a sailing a magnificent boat type of nut.
    You bring me a great deal of interest and pleasure, thank you.

  12. What a treat this episode is, I consider the last one would take some beating but its not true this was truly spectacular AND informative, Keep going, Pete Y

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